Yet, if there is any doubt, it is far better to err on the dry side. Dryness will deter growth, but too much moisture will kill the plant. If water remains in the pot and does not dry out in a week or ten days, it is likely that the roots will have rotted off.

The pseudobulbs will shrivel and the leaves droop. Many amateurs mistake this for an indication of dryness, and treat the pot to another drubbing, thus rotting the remaining roots and probably killing the plant.

A plant that shows signs of shriveling from lack of roots will often respond to a daily gentle overhead spray. Laelias and other plants with light, heat, and air requirements similar to the Cattleyas need about the same watering treatment.

Laelias like slightly more water after complete growth and before flowering. After flowering they will require slightly less.

Vandas, since they are without pseudobulbs, must have water at all times, but their lusty aerial roots will take care of some deficiency in watering by taking moisture from the air. Phalae-nopsis, also pseudobulb-less, must not be allowed to dry out entirely.

Watering of this species must be done with care to prevent water from remaining in the crowns, a condition that is conducive to the growth of fungus.

Oncidiums must not be allowed to shrivel. They need a great deal of water when growth is being completed and flowering is beginning, but require less after flowering. The bulbs of Cym-bidiums should not be allowed to shrivel.

Standing pots on damp gravel on the floor seems to give them the warmth at the top and coolness below that they find congenial.

They prefer water at the roots at all times, but the potting mixture should be well drained and not soggy. Cypripediums have no bulbs and require copious water at the roots. Odontoglossums also require much moisture at the roots, and must be kept cool and shaded.

Evergreen Dendrobiums will require a moderate amount of water at the roots at all times, but the deciduous Dendrobiums must be allowed to dry out thoroughly during dormancy, at which time they resemble dry bamboo canes.

They need cooler conditions during dormancy. When the new growth is made and the joints of the cane begin to swell, indicating initiation of flower growth, they must be given large amounts of water and moved to a warmer spot.

It will be helpful to the grower to have some method of marking plants after watering so that he will not water them again too soon.

Segregating plants of one kind is not very satisfactory, since orchids are individuals and one will dry out sooner than another. Marbles or colored stakes in the pot may answer the purpose.

But no mechanical system is infallible and any system must be supplemented by close observation. Signs of need for watering are easily distinguishable. The experienced grower 'hefts' or weighs the pot in his hand: if light, watering is indicated.

The dry pot leaves no ring on the bench. The appearance of the potting material is an indication, but not always an accurate one.

The amateur will soon learn to recognize signs of well-being or need in his plants. Jewel-tipped roots and fat, rosy growths are indications of health.

Root growth is usually, though not always, apparent, and pots indicating healthy roots can be watered more frequently than those where root growth is doubtful. The latter should be treated to plentiful overhead spray.

This brings us to consideration of the importance of the overhead spray. Orchids appreciate diffused water as they do diffused light. A fine spray makes a hot, dry day bearable for all the plants.

A daily spray is routine except for dark, cold days in winter; at the height of summer two or more sprays a day will be gratefully received.

Daily light spraying over the potting material is prescribed for tiny seedlings, backbulbs without roots, sick plants, and newly potted plants.

Healthy roots attest the value of this treatment. Some growers pot with damp material and allow the newly potted plants to go without pot watering until roots show. Light spray over the top of the potting material supplies enough moisture to prevent shriveling.

Damping is the simplest of the watering operations. Its virtue is enhanced because it is hard to do damage with this method. It consists of watering down the walls, floors, paths, and benches between the pots.

In most climates this should be almost a daily procedure, omitted only when the house is too cold or the outside air too damp.

But there is one caution that should be heeded. It is popularly believed that orchids grow in steamy jungles. This is a misapprehension. What takes place in the jungle is rapid evaporation.

Steam is injurious to orchids, and when the house is being damped down, care should be taken not to play the water on hot pipes.

Finally, it is imperative that the plants have water with an acidity reading of approximately 4.5 to 5 pH.1 Where the local water supply is very alkaline, some method of putting it on the acid side must be arranged.

It is advisable to have the water supply analyzed and a remedy for deficiency suggested by a local chemist.

Some growers collect rain for watering, but if this is done they should be sure that the roof has not been sprayed with any injurious paint or stain. Other growers dip watering cans into vats containing water whose pH has been altered by the addition of acid.

Hydrochloric acid is most frequently used, but resultant acidity should be checked by some sort of acid meter. It is wisest to consult a chemist about exact methods.

This introduction to the techniques of balance may seem unduly complicated, but the amateur should not be discouraged, because these techniques will actually be less involved than they sound in the telling.

Constant watchfulness and faithful observation are perennial 'musts/ but they and the details of maintain¬ing balance will soon become second nature to the beginning orchidist. The gradual realization of the dream of having the fragrant glory of the tropics at hand will be the reward.

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